Day 3: Le Vélo and Saint-Germain-des-Prés

The third walk suggested by my guide book took me to a new part of the city, out of the 5th arrondissement and into the 6th. The starting point of this walk was considerably farther than that of the previous two. Recognizing this in addition to the soreness of my feet leftover from yesterday, I thought it best to seek out some other form of transportation. The answer was parked right at the base of the apartment building––le vélo. These bikes are part of a free bike system offered in Paris, the first 1/2 hour is free charging 1 euro each additional half hour. Once you register the bike is yours for the day and, so long as you don't ride for more than 1/2 hour before parking and taking a new one, it is completely free. The catch? Once you've successfully registered and selected your bike, placing small children, baguettes and/or valuables in the front basket, you're left with the exhilarating and terrifying task of riding a bike on the busy and confusing streets of Paris.  

I think to myself...at least I've had some training in Berkeley...right?

I made it to my destination safely and have now discovered my new favorite way to get around the city! Goodbye walking shoes, hello stylish flats. I had almost successfully hidden all the obvious American identifiers until I turned down a cobble stone avenue; the only bike on this street, bouncing around like an idiot, my joy quickly turned to horror for about a quarter of a mile––ouch.  

The first site to see on this walk was the church of Saint-Germain-des-Près. Walking up to the entrance pictured below felt...creepy. Incomplete without the dark and ominous clock tower that looms hauntingly  over the courtyard, this image still manages to remind me of every medieval torture scene I've ever read about or seen in the movies. Reading the history only added to the eeriness. Just to the left of the entrance stands the courtyard where over 1,000 "enemies of the Republic" were slaughtered during the French Revolution. Truly a haunting exterior. 

Once inside the church, the mood changed completely. Unlike any of the other churches I have thus far visited, Saint-Germain is filled with color on the inside. Red, green and gold covered pillars stretching upwards to a midnight blue ceiling scattered with gold stars. I lingered here for a long time, taking in the beauty of the colors and the stained glass that illuminates them. 

Exploring the streets surrounding the church, I found myself in the ritziest neighborhood yet. Dior and Louis Vuitton sit opposite one another on the square while fine arts and chic boutiques line the alley ways. The pâtissiere (bottom left) and chocolaterie (bottom right) are just two examples of shops in this area, each offering the most creative and original versions of their respective specialties. I immediately thought of Jane Reilley when I saw the animal print chocolate, now even you can admit that the French got something right :)

This was probably the chilliest day I've spent in Paris so far,and  as I wound my way through the maze of shops, don't worry dad, just window shopping ;), it started to sprinkle. This gave me the perfect excuse to duck into a crêperie I had been eyeing for a solid 5 minutes––little Breizh. The menu offered a lunch special including a buckwheat crepe, white flour dessert crepe and drink for 9 euros. A very traditional, family owned place and, not to mention, my best meal yet.  

For my buckwheat lunch crêpe, I ordered the crêpe avec d'oefus, du frommage et des épindards. As for the dessert crêpe I had the house-made carmel sauce...none of which survived long enough for a picture. 

By the time I had finished lunch, the rain had passed. I found myself looking forward to the trip back to the apartment via bike and headed back towards the bike station. Along the way I walked through L'´Ecole des Beaux-Arts (school of fine arts). The picture below shows the main gallery, the size of a gymnasium, which is enclosed by four beautifully designed walls and a glass ceiling. 

I visited the sculpture exhibit that was in one of the school buildings and snapped a picture of my favorite, a bronze sculpture of a horse and general standing at over 20 feet tall. Magnificent! 

Getting more comfortable with the bike, I took my time riding home. I went a little ways further from the apartment and road along the river for as long as possible, but still managed to arrive back at the apartment within the 30 minute free period. 

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Needless to say I'm enjoying my time so far and I can't wait for my next bike adventure!

Day 2: La Huchette and Cluny

Waking up this morning I was excited to get going. I made it back to kilometer zero in about 25 minutes compared to the 45 it took me yesterday. From there I was headed to the La Huchette, an area that includes some of the oldest streets and buildings in Paris, some dating back to the Middle Ages. But history isn't the only thing found in abundance on this street; a mix of tourists, a myriad of cultures and pick-pockets of every disguise make this a very busy place around noontime.

 

Though much of it may not fall under the "strictly traditional french" category, the food here cannot be passed up. The boulangerie pictured below drew me in the moment I turned onto the Rue de la Huchette, I promised myself I would stop here later. 

At the end of my tour of La Huchette and before venturing over to La Musée National du Moyen Age, also known as Cluny, I stopped back by this shop for a crêpe with nutella and bananas. You can see mine cooking on the round plate as le garçon refills the crêpe batter. Different but delicious, I will say that Daniel Gregorio's crêpes still hold first place in my book :) 

Back to La Huchette. As I made my way down the street my guide booked called attention to this little theater on the right, le Théâtre de la Huchette. It shows three live performances back to back each night, two of which are always the same and one that rotates. The first two on the board are by Ionesco, and part of the assigned reading for my past French classes. I'll be headed back here next week to see all three!

Taking a right onto a somewhat wider street, the church of St. Séverin comes into view, another church that few tourists seem to frequent. Built, torn down and rebuilt over the course of centuries, this church incorporates different architectural styles that are obvious to the untrained eye––but I could use the assistance of one Sarah Germini if she feels like joining me :) My favorite aspect of this church was the stained glass, each window unique in color and design. 

The first three hours of this day flew. After finishing my crêpe I made for my last intentional visit of the day––Cluny. Having taken two courses on Medieval history, I was looking forward to this stop all day. As I approached the museum I noticed advertisements boasting the featured exhibit of May: Medieval Military History. Needless to say (Tina Beigelbeck), I sprinted the rest of the way there.  In addition to the wonders of the usual collection, a whole downstairs basement...? or dungeon...? was dedicated to displays of medieval weaponry and armor. So cool....

         

Two hours later, my feet protesting each new step, I was ready to sit down. However, in my stubbornness to see as much of the city as possible I refused to take the metro or bus and forged a new path back to the apartment. And thankfully so! On my return journey I came across La Sorbonne, the standard of the French university system and a beautiful place to sit––thank God––and take in the late afternoon sites. 

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Arriving at the apartment completely exhausted, I collapsed onto the pull out couch and did not regain consciousness again until dinner. 

Day 1: First Glimpses

 I began the day at about 6 am––curse you jet lag––but, on the bright side, I was able to get an early start my first day out in the city. I left with my backpack, cell phone and guidebook, prepared to take on one of the seven suggested walks. The weather was beautiful, warm and eventually hot with a light breeze. After going in circles a few times I discovered the street signs and the street I was looking for, Rue de Vaugirard, which also happens to be the longest street in Paris.

Winding my way through this part of Paris, I had to force myself not to stop at every unexpected sight or shop, reminding myself that I have 27 days to go. Walking down the large Boulevard-St. Michel, the street begins to widen and opens up to reveal la Seine river. Taking a few steps to the right Notre Dame Cathedral comes into view. 

Crossing le Petit Pont, I found myself in the square just in front of Notre Dame, Place du Parvis. 

                             

The shadow looms over the shining plaque that marks the center of the city––kilometer zero. From this point I began my walk. 

After exploring Notre Dame and some of the right bank, I crossed the Petit Pont back over to the left bank of the river.

Once on the left bank I was immediately sucked in to the original, seemingly simple Shakespeare and Company. However, once inside I realized what so many travel guide books were raving about. Books everywhere––walls of books, tables of books, hidden staircases lined with books, reading nooks with chairs, beds and, around one corner,  a piano supported by books. A quick tour of this shop turned into an hour long browsing adventure. Three hours into my first day I was hungry and stopped at the riverside café Le Petit Pont for a sandwich. 

         

Around the corner from Shakespeare and Company is the Rue du St. Julien le Pauvre. On the left past the park(picture bottom left) is the church of the same name (picture bottom right).  As you can see, this church is rather plain compared to the facade of Notre Dame pictured above. I walked inside and sat down, the church was completely empty. Despite being the oldest church in Paris, St. Julien le Pauvre was obviously less of a tourist attraction than Notre Dame but, in my opinion, a more intimate and interesting place to visit.  

                                        

Once I was satisfied poking around a few of the back alleys in this area I decided, around 2 pm that it was time to walk back. This turned into an adventure of its' own as I let myself stop in at many of the  places I had passed this morning. I wasn't disappointed! 

Surrounding the Parisian Sénat, the Jardin du Luxembourg was the most beautiful sight of the day. I spent the better part of an hour walking around and sitting on a couple of the many benches scattered throughout. I plan on frequenting this place from now on.  

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After picking up some groceries and browsing a few more shops, I ended the day back at the apartment with a nap, dinner and some reading.  

Getting oriented

I am staying in the 14th arrondissement, Montparnasse. It is about a 30 minute walk from where I am to kilometer zero–the point from which I will begin most of my exploring.

Getting settled

For the next 28 days I will be living in France––actually right here in this "petit" studio apartment––eating, breathing, and, eventually, speaking French culture. The grand plan is to start from kilometer zero, the center of Paris and go from there. My guides will be, historical interests, hunger cravings, tips from friends and the touristy but compulsory AAA travel guide hot spots. Allons-y!

NC en route to France!

Left SFO at 6AM Monday, and will arrive in France at 6AM Tuesday - let the fun begin!