Day 3: Le Vélo and Saint-Germain-des-Prés

The third walk suggested by my guide book took me to a new part of the city, out of the 5th arrondissement and into the 6th. The starting point of this walk was considerably farther than that of the previous two. Recognizing this in addition to the soreness of my feet leftover from yesterday, I thought it best to seek out some other form of transportation. The answer was parked right at the base of the apartment building––le vélo. These bikes are part of a free bike system offered in Paris, the first 1/2 hour is free charging 1 euro each additional half hour. Once you register the bike is yours for the day and, so long as you don't ride for more than 1/2 hour before parking and taking a new one, it is completely free. The catch? Once you've successfully registered and selected your bike, placing small children, baguettes and/or valuables in the front basket, you're left with the exhilarating and terrifying task of riding a bike on the busy and confusing streets of Paris.  

I think to myself...at least I've had some training in Berkeley...right?

I made it to my destination safely and have now discovered my new favorite way to get around the city! Goodbye walking shoes, hello stylish flats. I had almost successfully hidden all the obvious American identifiers until I turned down a cobble stone avenue; the only bike on this street, bouncing around like an idiot, my joy quickly turned to horror for about a quarter of a mile––ouch.  

The first site to see on this walk was the church of Saint-Germain-des-Près. Walking up to the entrance pictured below felt...creepy. Incomplete without the dark and ominous clock tower that looms hauntingly  over the courtyard, this image still manages to remind me of every medieval torture scene I've ever read about or seen in the movies. Reading the history only added to the eeriness. Just to the left of the entrance stands the courtyard where over 1,000 "enemies of the Republic" were slaughtered during the French Revolution. Truly a haunting exterior. 

Once inside the church, the mood changed completely. Unlike any of the other churches I have thus far visited, Saint-Germain is filled with color on the inside. Red, green and gold covered pillars stretching upwards to a midnight blue ceiling scattered with gold stars. I lingered here for a long time, taking in the beauty of the colors and the stained glass that illuminates them. 

Exploring the streets surrounding the church, I found myself in the ritziest neighborhood yet. Dior and Louis Vuitton sit opposite one another on the square while fine arts and chic boutiques line the alley ways. The pâtissiere (bottom left) and chocolaterie (bottom right) are just two examples of shops in this area, each offering the most creative and original versions of their respective specialties. I immediately thought of Jane Reilley when I saw the animal print chocolate, now even you can admit that the French got something right :)

This was probably the chilliest day I've spent in Paris so far,and  as I wound my way through the maze of shops, don't worry dad, just window shopping ;), it started to sprinkle. This gave me the perfect excuse to duck into a crêperie I had been eyeing for a solid 5 minutes––little Breizh. The menu offered a lunch special including a buckwheat crepe, white flour dessert crepe and drink for 9 euros. A very traditional, family owned place and, not to mention, my best meal yet.  

For my buckwheat lunch crêpe, I ordered the crêpe avec d'oefus, du frommage et des épindards. As for the dessert crêpe I had the house-made carmel sauce...none of which survived long enough for a picture. 

By the time I had finished lunch, the rain had passed. I found myself looking forward to the trip back to the apartment via bike and headed back towards the bike station. Along the way I walked through L'´Ecole des Beaux-Arts (school of fine arts). The picture below shows the main gallery, the size of a gymnasium, which is enclosed by four beautifully designed walls and a glass ceiling. 

I visited the sculpture exhibit that was in one of the school buildings and snapped a picture of my favorite, a bronze sculpture of a horse and general standing at over 20 feet tall. Magnificent! 

Getting more comfortable with the bike, I took my time riding home. I went a little ways further from the apartment and road along the river for as long as possible, but still managed to arrive back at the apartment within the 30 minute free period. 

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Needless to say I'm enjoying my time so far and I can't wait for my next bike adventure!